72
Hours in the land of cellphones and cigarettes.
Story
and Photos by Bryce Kanights
Of
all the countries Ive visited in my years of traveling
around this planet Id have to say Japan is one
that always leaves me yearning for return visits. For
a few short days this past summer I had the fortunate
opportunity for another visit to Japan. Although this
trip was very brief, we were able to make the most of
our time on the ground, even if it meant sacrificing
sleep. We figured wed catch up on the down time
during the flight back home.
During
the earlier part of the year Id been working along
with Lisa Hudson at Black Sun Productions in producing
Konamis then-upcoming and now-released video game,
XGames Skateboarding. Konami is a large publisher in
the electronic gaming industry maintaining several offices
throughout the world with the bulk of their development
teams based in Japan. Both Lisa and I had been responsible
in building the roster of featured riders in the game
and coordinating all assets from their sponsors with
Konami. On the part of KCEO (Konamis Osaka Office),
Lisa, Chad Fernandez, Chris Senn and I were scheduled
to spend two days in Osaka with Konamis development
team and one afternoon in Tokyo before returning back
to the States. This itinerary didnt leave much
opportunity to skate unfound terrain in which we were
seeking to discover.
During our first full day in Osaka we spent long hours
at KCEO with the development team fine-tuning the play
levels and functional elements of the video game. Language
translation on the part of both Konamis Aki Saito
and Yoshi Aoyogi was crucial as Chris and Chad conveyed
their input and criticism to the preliminary versions
of the game. With their involvement, each of the games
characters were refined and the play levels were tweaked
towards the final rounds of development. Each of the
Japanese team carefully paid attention to Chris and
Chads suggestions with the translated words from
Yoshi. It was clearly obvious to us the meticulous effort
and hours of dedication that each member devoted to
this project.
Later
that night we were treated to a generous dinner in the
company of the entire KCEO skate development team with
Yoshi and Aki delivering speeches to the group. Words
of gratitude and respect were directed towards us and
were soon drowned by loud cheers and flowing cups of
beer and saki throughout the room. Before long, everything
became blurred and we found ourselves at a posh Karaoke
joint with more saki and beer at our disposal. Chad
began to belt out intoxicated renditions of G and Rs
Sweet Child of Mine. Lisa countered with
a great effort of Like a Virgin. Meanwhile,
Chris searched the playlist for any thing close to the
Rollins Band and last I remember, I was singing Shes
a Lady by Tom Jones. Man, its times like
those in which youd rather not mention, but theres
no sense in burying the truth. Besides, the pictures
and video footage of the evenings events dont
lie. For the record, Karaoke originated in Japan and
its meaning is empty Orchestra. Go figure.
We made our way back to Lisas room at the hotel
to raid her mini bar and then it was lights outor
more like, pass out stupid-drunken-tourist style.
The
next morning brought on a grip of hunger to quell the
previous evenings debauchery. We quenched it downstairs
at the hotels bountiful breakfast buffet. Still,
both Chad and Chris were expected to do a little skate
demo for the development team at a nearby skate spot
in the coming hour. They both felt like shit and looked
it too. They were hurting for sure.
We
showed up for the previously planned skate demo and
greeted the KCEO group that had gathered. They appeared
well rested and poised with an assortment of cameras.
You could see the eagerness in their eyes to witness
Chad and Chris hammer out some stunts at the spot with
ledges and curbs. To put it bluntly, the boys did their
best to skate despite the state in which they were in.
Everyone cheered the boys for their efforts and gathered
for numerous group photos before we departed the scene.
Following the demo, Lisa took off to the airport as
she had arranged her return flight from Osaka to San
Francisco that afternoon. We spent the remainder of
the afternoon sightseeing downtown in various shopping
districts with record stores, boutiques and restaurants.
With
our work completed in Osaka, we were off to Tokyo for
a day and a half via the Bullet train. Aki accompanied
us for the trip as he lives in Tokyo and was returning
home for the weekend. Three hundred miles blurred by
in two short hours as we interacted with a jolly Japanese
businessman seated next to us. Chad taught him how to
say Wassup, Damn, dude and Its
all good. Damn, my side still aches at the thought
of his sweaty smiling round face and the words that
came from his mouth. It was fun for all of us indeed.
Once in Tokyo, Aki set us up in a sweet hotel in the
Roppongi district and left us on our own for the next
36 hours. Ready to hit the town and feeling hungry,
we opted for an Italian restaurant in the heart of the
districts bustling nightclub scene. The food was
good, but you have to bear in mind that cigarettes are
everywhere and you have to get used to your clothes
smelling like burnt cabbage after a night of dining
or going out for a few beers.
The
following morning we woke early and made our way around
the city by means of its complex web of subway lines
and stations. Our first stop was in Shibuya, the bustling
heart of Tokyo consumerism central. Massive Jumbotron
screens hang from slick stainless steel buildings like
a scene out of Bladerunner. On the streets below, high
fashion clothing, cell phones and cigarettes are the
status quo as we find ourselves wandering around in
a sea of humanity.
Our
mission for the day was to locate several of the prime
skatespots which we knew existed within the city limits.
Our primary obstacle was the ominous language barrier
that plagues Westerners in Japan. We found our way to
Stormy, which is Tokyos largest skateboard retailer
in hopes of securing information on skate spots from
the locals. No such luck. The teenagers who worked behind
the counters had no English skills and it was obvious
that they really didnt skate either. Back on the
streets, Chad encountered a few kids with skateboards
and managed to get our intentions across to them. Shinjuku
was the operative word we managed to garner from them.
So it was back to the subway system for us and onward
to Shinjuku station.
A
few train transfers later, we found ourselves skating
through a modernized commercial district ripe with marble
ledges, numerous gaps and unknobbed rails of various
shapes and sizes. We couldnt believe the terrain
that we stumbled upon, but due to the abundance of pedestrians
throughout the area and a few security guard encounters,
we opted to return later that evening to skate and shoot
some photographs. So we made our way back to the hotel
to swim and relax by the pool. Later in the afternoon
we visited Akihabara, known as Tokyos Electric
Town where we checked out the latest electronic
gear and bought a few items not available back home.
We
took the last trains back out to Shinjuku around midnight
with our sights set on a few spots to skate and shoot
at. The streets and surrounding buildings were barren
for the most part. Only an occasional passerby glanced
in our direction as we skated at several spots. As I
began to shoot images of them at one particular railing,
we noticed the unmistaken sound of skateboards rolling
towards us from a distance. It was a pack of Japanese
skatersabout a dozen of them. They quickly convened
and sat down on their boards to watch both Chad and
Chris skate on their urban terrain. None of them said
a word. They just carefully studied our session and
clapped after Chad and Chris broke off trick after trick.
The scene unfolded like a surreal skate demo in the
still of the night minus the autograph seekers and free
product takers. Film was exposed, energy was burned,
the Japanese kids were stoked and a cab ride to our
hotel was beckoned. It was a good night forever to remember.
Morning
came quickly as the sun peered through the hotel room
blinds. We met up with Aki for breakfast, shared some
good moments of the trip and thanked him for his hospitality.
We then boarded a shuttle for the airport and the flight
home went just as planned with plenty of time
to sleep and dream about a return trip to the land of
enchantment.