They'll cut off your hands, steal your liver and kill you. Story By Dave Nelson
Photos By Jai Tanju & Toad


 
 

Our trip began with Toad, Jai, and me arriving in Rio de Janeiro on our way to meet up with Chris Senn, who was already there. Rio has a certain tropical feel to it. We could feel it as soon as we stepped off the plane, and got our first glimpse of the Rio girls.  It took a couple of hours for me to realize that we were actually there, and that the mystery was finally over. After a short cab ride, we checked in at Chris’s hotel and immediately went down to the beach to walk around and try some Brazilian beer. Ocean waves rolled in warm water and bikini clad chicks, as if they were gifts from the gods.  The beaches in Rio are surrounded by mountainous peaks that overlook the heart of the city. Scattered among the mountains were Favelas, which were where the poorest people in Rio lived.  Chris was explaining to us about the infamous Favelas, which were featured in the Brazilian movie, “City of God”.
Favelas are located on the hillsides of Rio, and are basically ghettos, which have been taken over by young mafias of organized crime. These young leaders are literally in control of everything that goes on in the Favela. Inside, guards are armed with automatic weapons protecting those within from intruders. It was part of Chris’s plan to take us inside to see what lay beyond the mysticism. Apparently, Chris was homies with the mafia dudes, and he assured us it would be safe. “Just don’t steal anything or take pictures of anyone, or they’ll cut your hands off and kill you”, he says with a smile. It is considered to be a no man’s land to outsiders and is dangerous as hell if you don’t have permission to go in there. We were looking forward to the adventure.

 
 
The next few days were occupied by the X Games, which were being held at the end of the beach where we were staying. Brazilians, in general, are a little high strung when it comes to skating, but the X Games crowd was an entirely new breed of psychopath. It was being held on the world famous Copacabana beach of Rio. There was a storm coming in and it had been raining off and on during the whole contest. The course was uncovered and since the rain would only last for about 20 minutes at a time, skating was constantly being delayed. Every time the rain stopped, a staff of 15 moppers would come out and try to dry off the ramps. 

When it came time for finals, the lapses of dry time had gotten smaller and smaller, making it near impossible to hold a contest. In addition to the rain, there was another issue at hand. Chris was the only American skater in the street finals. During his run, he slammed on his first two tricks, and ran into a photographer. He gave up the few remaining seconds of his run in frustration. The crowd reacted by booing and chanting, “Veado”, Portuguese for faggot. Chris, not being too pleased by the response, returned the favor by flipping off the entire Brazilian crowd. The enraged audience started chanting “Saddam Hussein, Saddam Hussein…” Then, during the practice session following, every time Chris would slam, the crowd would cheer. Random fans began yelling threats down from the stands. The whole contest had turned into a dramatic display of idiocracy. Brazilian TV reporters and the BBC radio team were in line waiting to interview Chris about the astonishing turn of events. Neal Hendrix was telling us we had better watch our backs because we were going to get lynched. The remaining two hours of the contest was as ridiculous as the whole Saddam Hussein episode. The rain, which had been teasing us during the whole contest, had reached a point of no return. It seemed pointless to even continue. The crowd of thousands had dwindled to hundreds. We stood in dismay as the moppers continued their valiant efforts in vain. In the end, the rain had saved us from the lynching that was promised by our new Brazilian fans. The contest was called to an end and the winners were chosen by their previous runs, Chris taking Fourth place.
 
The one good thing which came out of us being at the X-games was that we got to meet up with Chris’s friends Patricia and Vania. Patricia is a rad girl that organizes contests through her own company, “Chama Violetta.” Vania is this cute Brazilian girl that can do backside tailslides on handrails.  She skates tough and knows how to take a slam. Her two front teeth have permanently turned black from falling on her face.


 
After escaping the contest through the back, Chris took us to this restaurant nearby which served up meat on swords. Waiters would walk around to every table with swords full of meat, which they placed in front of us, and preceded to slice meat onto our plates. Our place mats even had diagrams of cows with labeled parts of which we were eating. We sat and attempted to digest our food with the help of Capirinyas (Brazil’s national drink) made from sugar cane liquor and sugar. The sugar cane liquor (Cachaza) was cheap as hell.  About 3 dollars at any grocery store will get you a liter of the shit. The first time I bought it we sat near the beach and were randomly approached by passerby’s wanting to get a drink. 

Later that night, Toad and me left our apartment to go have a few more drinks. Earlier on, Chris had warned us not to go home with any strange women. Apparently, there were many cases of dudes being drugged by hookers only to wake up in a bathtub full of ice, with their livers missing. Liver transplants are hard to come by in Rio and expensive, so the black market had taken up livers as a commodity for theft. As weird as it sounds, many cases of such occurrences had been documented of travelers waking up in a bathtub, with a note that says, “We stole your liver!” After hanging around outside this club, we had been trying to ditch this hooker who was stalking us. She kept trying to talk to us, and since she spoke pretty good English, we listened to her bullshit to pass the time. She had a definite evil side about her.  I asked her if she had ever killed anyone, and she confessed to killing her cat in a fit of anger.  She had been taking steroids and was under a lot of stress. This girl was obviously whacked, so we quickly decided it best for us to leave and protect our livers from possible endangerment.

After spending the next morning at the beach, we headed out for Rio Sul bowl.  Toad and Chris were throwing down some serious flow and control in the bowl. The session was raging with Dave Duncan and Sasha Steinhorst showing up to shred with us. The next stop was at Flamenco skate park, which was one of the better spots we skated during the trip. It was a cement skate park with various hips, banks, corners, walls, and a spine, all with this rough granite coping that grinded like mad. 


 
 
The girls of Rio are an entirely different story altogether, we even had to develop our own rating scale for how good looking they were. It went from good to better, on a scale that started with “Dammmnnn!” then, “Dude, did you fuckin' see that!” then “Holy fucking Shhhhhhitt”, and so on. It got to be pretty ridiculous. 
 The next day, Chris got word that his ex-wife was causing some drama back on the home front, requiring Chris to return home unexpectedly. His last night in Rio was spent being chased by the cops. We were sad to see him go so early, especially since he was our tour guide for our trip.

Fortunately, the weather had made a turn for the better, promising sun for the rest of our days. We got a tip from a friend to check out this skate park on the outskirts of Rio. We spent the next couple of hours at the park, where we eventually met up with our new self-appointed tour guide, Andrea the giant. Andrea was this oversized Brazilian dude, and thus we named him accordingly. Andrea was a novice English speaker. He especially loved to tell us stories while driving. He would be trying to tell a story to one of us in the back seat of the car while driving and smoking a joint, looking back at us repeatedly and swerving across lanes of traffic. During one of his stories, we managed to make two laps around a huge lake before realizing that we had missed his exit off the freeway. 

Nearby our apartment was Apreador Bowl, located on a hill above the beach.  The bowl was one of the oldest in Rio, 12 ft. deep with tile coping and a cancerous bottom. There was also a sketchy spine that connected to a 4 ft. bowl. Local tales of Hosoi blasting 9 ft. airs blew our minds, since we were happy just to frontside grind the thing. 


The next day we went to the Favela. We had been looking forward to this part of the trip. Patricia had called ahead and gotten permission for us to come and take some pictures, as long as we didn’t photograph the mafia dudes. The leader, who was no more than 20, met us at the entrance. Toad brought a bunch of stickers with him to give to the kids. He seemed interested as well, so Toad hooked him up. The guy was stoked, telling us that he was going to put them on his gun. The Favela resembled a catacomb of hallways and stairways that led to different homes. The homes were small cement rooms, which were randomly stacked on top of each other. There were no streets, roads, or numbers on the doors. There is one guy who delivers mail to the 200 some people who live inside the Favela. He just knows where to go to find everyone, which is amazing, because we got lost in about 20 minutes while walking with Vania, who lives there.
Kids were all up on Toad as he handed out his bag full of stickers. Jai was in heaven, snapping photos of everything that we came across. Our final day was spent riding around trying to hit last minute skate spots and getting photos.  We got to skate a rad ditch that went down alongside a double-set. The whole surface had a layer of chalky dust on it, which made it super slippery and sketchy. I’m a big fan of roadside ditches, especially really sketchy ones. We got to take some more photos and skate around before coming back to Ipenema to say farewell to the beaches and our new friends.  We were already making plans to return to Rio, before getting on the plane to come back to the reality of our lives.